Retrospective Havana post #2
Los Van Van, The rehearsal

Prologue: About a week out from my departure from Havana, I heard a rumour that Los Van Van would be playing in Australia in August. After saying "wow" and "really"? I put it at the back of my mind and forgot about it, thinking: that's never gonna happen.
On the following Monday morning, I was listening to Disco Fiesta. Juan Formell was being interviewed, and I heard it with my owns ears: a tour to Japan then gigs in Australia. Holy fuck! I went to the Van Van website and emailed their contact, Americo. About 5pm that day he called back and gave me a barrage of phone numbers to call to arrange interviews - curse my Spanish! I wrote them all down wrong, except for Juan's - the crucial one you might think. But I spent all that night and the next day calling him with one of two dispiriting results: an answering machine or a chica that said "no se encuentra. Llama más tarde." I had four days to get something together for a newspaper back home. A panicked email to Americo elicited no response - next stop: Masako; Vanvanera and chum of trombonist Edmundo. I explained the situation to her in my terrible Spanish and asked her if she could call him and ask if it was OK if I went to a rehearsal at La Tropical. She called back at 11pm - all set, she said. (Or the Spanish equivalent.) They'll be rehearsing tomorrow at La Tropical from 10am. Go there. Here is where my diary picked up the story:




June 7: Van Van ensayo
Fine sunny day - luckily, La Tropical being outdoors and all. Got out there a bit after 10. There were a bunch of guys hanging around out the front, and, not being 100% sure I would be welcome - or even allowed in - I had prepared to have to talk my way in. One of the guys came over, but no sooner had I said "soy periodista de Australia" than he said yah yah, and led Helen and I into La Tropical and down the stairs. Juan Formell was there with about four other musos (the rest arrived rapidily after us). He was standing next to an amp with his bass hanging off his shoulders, and he acted as though he was expecting me, even though I hadn't been told officially about the interview. He said he could do the interview then, but I wanted Martin to translate - my Spanish being little more than servicable. I explained this, then went to call Martin and beg him to come. He squared it with his boss, and said he was on his way.



By now pretty much all of Van Van was there except for the second violin and Mayito - who it took me a while to miss. The group was set up on the left side of the dance floor, as you face the stage, in the shade. To their right, was a group of guys playing dominoes. (How come women never play?) Robertón and Lele joined them when they arrived.

Yeni was looking cute in a cap and sunnies; when Mayito arrived - about 12; he was wearing a purple bandanna and lilac t-shirt. The band spent an hour and a half doing what I thought was a new song - it had all the hallmarks of one of the live modern epics, but later in the interview Juan said it was a song from the 70s (turned out to be Dale Dos). Even though I wasn't familiar with it, it had obviously been given an overhaul. They're doing a medley of oldies at the moment live, but those songs still sound old - this one sounded like something from Chapeando.






They played it bit by bit, stopping to sort things out, then starting again, before playing it in full twice. Roberton was really firing. It was totally swinging. Classic Van Van and very hot. It got Masako up and dancing - with the whole La Tropical dance floor to herself.

It was interesting to see who was doing the musical directing. At the beginning, Juan was playing bass; then the bass player arrived, and Juan directed from his plastic garden chair with his old-school mic. Also directing the action: Roberton; the grey-haired tombonista who plays with a synth in front of him; and, when he arrived later, Mayito. I wrote some questions fast; then rewrote them so Martin could understand them, then Martin wrote them in Spanish.
Juan came up about 11:30 and asked if it was OK if we could stick around till the rehreasal finished at 1. Of course. Helen spent the whole rehearsal walking around taking pics and video.

After they worked on Dale Dos for about 90 minutes, they rehearsed a medley - I didn't recognise anything in it until they got to Que cosas tiene la Vida.

Juan came over almost immediately when they finished. He seems reasonably healthy. One side of his face is a little immobile from the stroke; but otherwise he seems pretty good. Martin translated my questions for me and I did my best to understand. He spoke for about 30 minutes. Then we all went our separate ways. Thanks Juan! Thanks Martin!



Epilogue: When I returned, I pitched the story to a section on the newspaper where I work and got it accepted. When it's published, I'll post the link here.

Note: I jumped the gun a bit on tickets for their Australian shows, but it is happening, and tickets for the Sydney show are now available from the Enmore Theatre or Ticketek. Tickets for the Melbourne show can be bought here.

Copyright © 2006 Gabriel Wilder
All pics by Helen Ferry

Rumba sabrosa

(como se goza)

Ban Ra Ra put on a spectacular show on Prado, in Habana Vieja one warm Saturday evening in June. To read about the show, click here, to see the slidehow, go here.

Yemaya's verse: now with slideshows

Finally got my shit together - now in the sidebar on the right, there is a list of links to specific slideshows (under "My pics"), so you don't have to go to flickr and sort through the jumble. Still more pics to come ...

Pupy pix

It's los que Son Son's turn.
These are images from a matinee at Galiano and also a concert at the lovely, though neglected, Teatro America the following Saturday. That was a great gig. Click here to read my report, and here to go to see the photos at flickr. Also, clicking here will take you straight to a slideshow.
Meanwhile, below is more video. A young chap asked me to dance to Dicen que Dicen, and I thought, why not? I like this clip cause I think it shows the relaxed ambience of this particular show. Stick with it to the end to see uber-geek Michelle White.

Trabuco Pt. 2

More pics, this time from the last peña at Cafe Cantante. There were many times when I didn't take my camera, cause I just wanted to have fun, and I wanted to dance. But when it's all over, when you get back to your home, thousands of miles away, where it's cold and rainy and the people know nothing of Cuba beyond Fidel and cigars, those times when you did manage to stand still while Trabuco were playing Raspadura and fully going off sure do pay off.

What is Mayami doing to Michel?

The lighting was better this week than the others - just lucky I guess. And these pics really show the gig as I remember it: the brilliant chaos of a twenty talented people on stage, some super-rehearsed and tight, some - Michel, Vannia, et al - jamming. I hope they convey the joy of it too. At all the best Trabuco gigs, the joy was overwhelming. (Read my original report here.)

I've been listening to El Cantor from Hablando en Serio - it's the song we jammed to at the party, and when I reviewed it, I mentioned the beautiful Calunga, but I forgot to mention the awesome charanga section at the end - no wonder it managed to hook Bencomo back in to the party. This song is more traditional than the more immediately likeable tracks such as Comunicate, but it's no less potent. Click here, to hear a snip: it's the section towards the end. Pay attention to those gorgeous, golden strings.

Trabuco

The first batch of many, many pics of the group in action is up at flickr. These are from the Cafe Cantante matinee of June 1. Tanja's daughter did the obligatory version of Ya no hace falta, while sporting a micro mini (she bent over at one point, then suddenly remembered Riverón was right behind her).


Later in the show, I don't remember the song, Riverón left his kit for some reason, and Mayami sat down and started drumming ... He was lame at it. He was playing a very straight beat, hitting the snare with one hand - Riverón took the other and tried to get him to play a different rhythm on the cowbell. He failed.
I love this pic, even though it's technically lame (that place is so dark and Riverón's kit was too far away), because it captures the moment - not when they realise that the impromptu class is a failure, but the moment after that, when they've realised it and both looked at the boss ... to find that he has realised it too.

Vannia, Michel and Manolito

More video. This was an amazing show at Cafe Cantante, on June 8 (the day before I left - also there are reports on all these shows in previous posts) - 100 peeps on stage seemingly. In this video there is Vannia, Michel, an unknown (to me) tres player and guests on bass and and piano. The video quality isn't that good, but if anyone recognises any of these guys, can you let me know?

Also, this video has better quality than the previous ones, and I've reuploaded the previously posted videos (Michel, Pupy) so they sound better too, so you might wanna give them another look.



Google link here.

Los Van Van in Oz

Mayito at a rehearsal at La Tropical, Havana, June 7

Los Van Van in Oz? Really?
Anyone who lives here will know how ridiculous a proposition that seems - this is a country where rock rules and where R&B - or "urban" music has really only recently taken over. On Sunday, my first day back at work, someone asked me about my holiday, and when I told her I went to Cuba for the music - for timba, she asked me to describe it. I said, well, it comes from a traditional form of Cuban music, son. she said, "What's son?"
She's not alone. Most people here haven't got a clue. I don't know the full story on how the Van Van dates happened - only that someone in Melbourne decided to take advantage of the fact that they would be in Japan (our distance from Cuba is another reason we don't see timba bands here), and hired them for a date in that cold but fair city. A guy in Sydney has jumped in to make a concert happen here, so local Van Vaneros, get your credit cards ready. Here are the details:

Los Van Van
Enmore Theatre
August 25
Tickets $85 dance floor, $75 seated + booking fee
On sale Wednesday June 28, ph 9550 3666 or online.

The Melbourne gig is on August 27, for details, go here.

Get in there and buy up peeps - if this is a success, maybe we can see more timba groups here ... I know Trabuco would love to come!

Bailando con los Son Son
So I'm back at work, here in cold Sydney, far away from the love of my life (that's timba, dummy). Thankfully Los Van Van will be playing here on August 25 (and in Melbourne on August 27), so that's something to slake my timba thirst (I'll write a full post about that soon). Meanwhile I'm still processing photos and video. Here is one of me dancing with a timba geek (she prefers not to be named).

Oh, and the music is courtesy of the mighty Pupy y los que Son Son.

The video is by Helen Ferry.





If it doesn't play so well, try viewing it at google.

Michel bats one out of the park
The crowd went wild when Michel arrived on stage at the Paulito gig at Galiano (see previous post). It was late in the show - during Te Boté, the song has been the sound of Havana over the last couple of months - the Industriales were already up there grooving away and suddenly there was Michel, in an Industriales uniform, looking like a complete galah. It was a great combination: Havana's favourite current band; their favourite (winning) team and their favourite son. The crowd went wild.

Retrospective Havana post #1
Tumbao Habana, Tuesday, June 6
Casa de la Musica, Miramar

Got there about 7 (the Miramar matinees now go from 5-9pm, so the band comes on 7-ish). There was hardly anyone there - 40 or 50 peeps at most. The Tom of Finland boy singers were sucking face with two blondes before the show; and the dandy conga player and the built bass player were at a table next to us; and got ticked off for sitting around chatting while the rest of the band were already on stage.

They were fun. Not earthshattering; but a good way to spend an afternoon. Helder, the CH pianista got up on stage - he's jammed with every band I've seen this week - and I believe there was an Industrial in the house but I'm not certain. There was lots of interaction with the audience - easy peasy as there were so few of us, and at least two were novias. "Cinturita, Australia!" said one. Cute.

There was a big bunch of drunk guys and I made the mistake of agreeing to dance with one of them. He danced like shit - either because he was very drunk - his table was crowded with empty Buccanero cans - or because he just dances like shit. I slid out of that partnership as soon as I could, and he spent the rest of the show asking me why. How do you say "because you dance like shit" in Spanish?

A babe with a baby bass

Their horns weren't great - a little ragged; but they have some good grooves and the two singers work hard and are quite engaging. Would have liked to have seen them when Mayami was part of the ensemble. They finish with a great dance routine in which the two singers are joined by the dandy and the saxophonist; strenuous and sexy, it's danced to a very funky tune. Fun.

Helder steps up to the keyboard

© Photos Helen Ferry; words Gabriel Wilder 2006

Paulito FG

Pics up at flickr. Decided to fork out for an actual account so forget Yahoo: all the pics will go there from now on. Manolito to come; and Pupy. Also some more video. At the rate I'm going, I will have only just finished uploading everything when I'm ready to go back ...

Party pics

Finally put a bunch of them in one place - just the pretty ones. Click here, or on the "my pics" link on the right.

Oye mi violín, qué bonito es ...
I'm still processing video and photos taken in Havana - most of the best stuff was taken by my friend Helen, who patiently filmed stuff when I was selfishly choosing to despelote instead. Hurrah Helen!

Here is a clip from the party of Nicolás playing violin to Calixto's Rumbero de Corazón. You can watch it below or by clicking here.

A great gig and the best party ever, Part 2
(Part 1 is below)

After the Cantante gig, I invited the gorgeous and charming violinist Nicolas to the party, and he was keen. Also told the, uh, gorgeous and charming Riverón, who was off to do some recording but said he would come later. He'd seen Paulito's bajista, Cristobal the previous day, and Cristobal had told him he'd be at the gig; but he didn't turn up (nor did he make it to the party). I tried to invite Mayami (of course!) but as usual; he was surrounded by admirers and I had to get in line. I thrust the address into his hand and ... that was the last I saw of him (his loss, naturally).

A very happy timba geek
with Nicolas ... ... and David Bencomo.

The bouncers were shooing everyone out - as usual, Trabuco had played till they turned the house lights on at about 8:50; so I went outside to try and organise everyone down to our house on Belascoain. I took Chino and Leonardo, and we stopped at Leonardo's place so he could drop off his trombone, and meanwhile I chatted to Chino, Trabuco's newest recruit. I didn't realise he had played with Maravillas de Florida before his current gig, though of course it makes sense with Manolito's history with the band.


We arrived at the house and I went upstairs and realised I had left stuff all over the sala, so I was throwing everything into the bedroom
and trying to get drinks ready. Fortunately helpers materialised from various parts of the house - as everyone seemed to arrive at once. Among the guests for the best party ever were: Trabuqueros David, Nicolas, Chino, Miguelito - Miguelito! I was so glad he came - Juan Carlos and Joel from Klimax, and some less famous Aussies and Cubans; along with Masako, a Japanese Vanvanera who is something of a legend for her dedication to the timba cause (she's been here since last December!).

Oye, mi guaguanco, que bonito es ... Nicolas and Masako.

The rum was flowing and the dancing started - actually I started it by dancing with my fab Spanish teacher Isabel, then danced a lovely son to Ya no hace falta with David. When the Tirso/Calixto collaboration Rumbero de Corazón came on, Juan Carlos and Annabel danced a rumba, then, oh my god - this is where it really got good: Nicolas got out his violin and started playing over the top; and JC started a coro. When Trabuco's Aqui cada uno started, things got wild and David and Helen danced, but I missed it cause I was in the bedrooom trying to bloody free up space on our cameras so we could record the proceedings.

There was a terrific vibe and lovely breeze from the balcony. It was perfect. I started hitting the straight rum just for the hell of it; while I chatted to Nicolas and danced with his cousin, who dances very well but tried to teach me how how to dance, and well, we all know how I feel about that.

Eliges tu, que canto yo ...

Juan Carlos is a pretty snazzy dancer too and we danced to Picadillo de Soya. Things continued in this fab fashion until the Vedado contingent, headed by Bencomo decided they'd leave. At that moment Trabuco's El Cantor came on and David got excited all over again. He started singing, and we all started singing the coro - "eliges tu, que canto yo" - and when the song finished the song continued; with coro, percussion and JC and Joel improvising about (among other things) the Industriales (claro que si). Nicolas started playing the violin and David got out the flute; and the singing gave way to the two of them trading licks while Bill and JC banged on walls and shutters and others clapped clave and Miguelito did a mouth synth solo. Awesome.


Chino and Miguelito
Next they started a son - some old thing that I didn't know but all the Cubans did (naturally). That was great too: violin, flute, claps and coro. It finished with Leonard's mouth trombone. The crew who had been about to leave (David, Miguel, Bill and Nicolas) got a second wind and hung around for more dancing and hanging out. When they finally did go; I thought Chino was going too and I said: are you leaving? He said something like: "Fuck no. Tienes que botarme" - and gave an air-kick. Bless. He's such a sweetie. I love those country boys. At one point he was out on the balcony talking with Joel; who was talking about (I think) Klimax playing an episode of Bailar Casino and (I think) what a disaster it was. Jajaja. Chino was saying, oh they (the dancers) like Reve; they like changui, cause it's straight ahead.

Klimax's Joel and Juan Carlos

Later I was burning some CDs for Juan Carlos - mainly the Fidel Morales album which he sings on but doesn't have a copy of (as soon as I'd burnt it, he put it on, and sat down and listened to himself). He was sitting in the loungeroom with a cigarette with a big tip of ash on it; so I put an ashtray on the arm of his chair. Next minute, tap tap, he ashes on the floor. Nice. Klimax's Joel is a piece of work. He's a great dancer, but should you encounter him, ladies, beware.



At 2am the owner of the casa asked us to turn down the music and peeps drifted off. How lovely the Trabuco boys are. And how very pretty they are. Bless them all. And all my gorgeous friends in Havana too; especially the lovely Masako and my lovely lovely Spanish teacher, Isabel. Love you all and miss you already. Thanks to everyone for the best party ever.

More photos at flickr.com/photos/yemaya

Pics by Helen Ferry and Gabriel Wilder
Words © Gabriel Wilder

A great gig and the best party ever
(Part 1)

Manolito finally gets his mug on my blog

My second last day in Havana was a Thursday - and the second last of Trabuco's "peñas" at Cafe Cantante. My friend Helen and I had toyed with idea of having a party for our local chums, and it seemed like a good idea to have it after our regular date with Manolito, especially as half our friends would be there anyway.

Nicolas

We arrived about 6-ish and rushed inside, out of the rain. Near the entrance I found Bill W talking to David Bencomo - Bill was all set for the party, but David was a "maybe". Trombonist Leonardo and bajista Chino were more keen. Went back and talked to Bill and David a bit before the group hit the stage, for what was, uh, the second best gig ever? I don't know. Pretty great anyway. There was no Raspadura or Hablando; and they started with a crappy reggaeton song, that was very fucking ordinary. But still, it's Trabuco, so ... The set also included Marilu (which, as probably everyone else reading this blog has figured out, is an old Van Van song), Diablo Colorado, Comunicate, Locos, Sacude la Mata, No te pases, Dijiste mentiras, and the 15-minute killer Marcando as the closer ... not my favourite set ever, but, still loads of fun. And Vannia had walked in at the same time as us, so I knew she'd be singing.

Metales!

While I was talking to Bill and David, Michel arrived and I greeted him like an old friend - without even thinking about it; and he responded in kind. That's Havana, baby!

Vannia, with backing from Michel and Mayami

Vannia sang - guess what? Well actually; she did a bolero first, totally taking the know-it-all in me by surprise then she did Ya no hace falta. And I hereby declare her the winner of the Trabuco Cafe Cantante Peña Ya no hace falta sing-off. It was a beautiful version: she sang it smooth and low - never shouting - and she has this terrific noble presence on stage; graceful and kinda regal. Fabulous.

Michel arrives

There were a cast of thousands taking turns on piano, not all of whom I recognised - Helder was not there, but I think another CH tecladista was; also Maikel Blanco played a bit and some guy I didn't recognised lasted about a minute before Manolito threw him off and showed him how to do it properly. Meanwhile there were guests congueros and guiro players, and Mayami introduced Michel during Locos by singing "el loco de la mata de coco"; and there he was; hot on the heels of the same tres player who had played with Van Van a few weeks back, whose name I still don't know.


Michel arrived with a mighty roar from that golden throat and totally took over, and Vannia scurried through the crowd from nowhere to sing coro with him. They were wild together and also sang a bit of a bolero though now, in restropect, I can't imagine how that fit in with all the other brilliant madness going on. But it did happen, I know that.

The singer from Los Angeles de la Habana got up and sang a bit and he was pretty good, which surprised me, because when I saw them play in 2004 I hated them. It seemed like there were a hundred peeps on stage at one point, with Manolito conducting them all from in front of Riverón, while Blanco played piano. He instructed the metales in a new horn part amongst other things, and put a new end of Sacude, which Amaray then overruled, in favour of the old one.


Mayami was wearing a long handkerchief-hem denim skirt and even though it was really ugly, there a fewer things hotter than a very handsome unpretty boy in a skirt - nothing says I'm totally at ease with my masculinity like a skirt. Just ask the Maoris! The weird thing was that no one seemed surprised to see him sans pantalones. And during Marcando, El Indio was trying to get him to lift it up, and I was shouting "sube sube!" Sadly he didn't take any notice of me. Though later he did address me from the stage in what was almost exclusively Cuban slang, as is his way (my Spanish teacher translated for me later).

It was killer gig for my second last day in Havana, but the night was just beginning...

To be continued ...


Photos by Helen Ferry and Gabriel Wilder
Words by Gabriel Wilder © 2006

Centro Habana, 4:45am
There are moments of perfection in a Klimax gig. Moments where what had seemed scrappy and incoherent just seconds earlier, suddenly becomes both transcendent and tangible: something so sublime and solid that you feel you can grab it with your hands - or your hips and your feet. And then you forget everything - their jinetero tecnico who has hit you up for beer every time you've ever seen them play; the drunken tourists behaving badly; the fact that it's 3:30am and you really want to go to bed... then the song ends; they start another, and the whole process starts anew: a cuerpo which leaves you ambivalent at best (what time is it?); puzzled at worst (how can a group of musos this fucking good sound so bad?) before it all gels for a blistering finish. Ah well. Such is the Klimax experience, and it was such at Delirio Habanero tonight.

They started a bit earlier than I had expected (12:50 or so); but after a 50 minute set, Piloto announced a 20 minute break. I talked to singer Juan Carlos for at least 40 minutes before they headed back to the stage.

The show started with the medley they do of Piloto's songs, which includes No me mires a los ojos and Me sube la fiebre - each snippet only serving to make me yearn for the songs in their entirety (they were doing the same medley when I saw them in 2004 - and opening with it then too). They followed this up with - brace yourself - a medley of popular reggaeton hits. Jeez. Piloto, por favor! Every obnoxious song that has dogged me on this holiday all wrapped into one interminable package and played live by a group with great original material. Go figure. Things looked up after that though, with a bunch of songs I'm afraid to say I didn't recognise (except for Mujer de mi vida); but still got me frugging.

Klimax is one of the only remaining bands - at least that I've seen this time - to still do the cintura contest (and quite frankly it's a tradition I'm very glad to see the back of), and when Juan Carlos recognised me from the stage (I had some fab adventures with Klimax in 2002, and one day, I'm going to write about it here) he called me up. I protested; he came and got me. I said: I won't dance. He said: oh no no. Liar. Seconds later the first girl starts whirling like a dervish in a banana skin. I patiently awaited for the right opportunity then fled the stage.
Piloto and keyboardist Yusef swapped roles for one song, but I'm afraid to say I can't remember what it was.

During the break, I caught up with JC and we had a right old chat and a bit of a dance, and he's coming to the party tomorrow night. He kept reintroducing me to various bandmembers, always with: look how much fatter she is now! Remember before when she was so skinny?

Spoke to their pianista who has a very Ben Harperish look about him and speaks reasonable English. He was kinda taunting JC cause he doesn't speak it. I really like their bass player. He looks like some guy from an emo band but he plays like ... well not quite Bootsy, but you get my drift. Solid and funky. He has a lot to do with the groove when its working - and probably when it's not as well.

So about 2:30am they went back on stage; and the weird thing is that the place had actually filled up during the break. Where were all these people before they came here? Obviously not watching Four Weddings and Funeral with inadequate Spanish subtitles on Cuban TV, like I was.

The highlight for me was probably No quiero que mi novia sea religiosa, with the usual rumba dancing from the conga player. It's so much fun that song. I defy anyone to stay seated during it. Killer. During the break JC had introduced me to the conguero, who is a babalao, and he offered to divine my saint for me, said that my head is full of too many things, and that it would calm my mind. Not to cast nasturtiums or anything, but I think you could probably guess with accuracy that any foreigner who works hard enough to save up enough money for a long trip to Cuba would be in the same state. But I guess that's just the cynic in me.

Even though the second set was mostly pretty good - they also did Te confunde ser esa mujer (they seem to have a new singer since 04 who can sing some of those higher songs) I didn't dance much - just too damn tired. And when they finished and the house music came on, I left.

Good gig though. Glad I chose it over Adalberto, who I now won't get to see this trip. And the sound was a zillion times better that whenever I've seen Klimax at Galiano - that place magnifies all of their shortcomings and offers nothing in return.

I have two more things to report - Tumbao Havana and a Van Van rehearsal - but right now I want to hit the hay. Disculpen por favor.

Paulito hits a home run
Casa de la Musica, Galiano
Matinee, Monday, June 5

Almost best gig ever. Possibly the most fun, thanks, in part, to Michel and the Industriales.
It didn't start well: we got there too early and there were hours of reggaeton. Earsplitting. Couldn't find my earplugs before I left. Looked everywhere. When Paulo came on, the PA stack stage right failed - fuck it. Right during my favourite, Sin Etiqueta. Paulo heard it and was gesticulating to get it fixed and some guy came from the wings and walked over to it and plugged it back in. Easy as. Funny. So todo bien after that. Great show. The band sounded fantastic as always; funky, solid, melodic. Good set - no oldies this time though, apart from Me Gusta Tanto, which is always in the set and actually sounds good - and it's not cause I'm bewitched by Paulo en vivo. It's actually quite different from the lame-ass monochromatic version on Te Deseo Suerte - it has a bunch of new sections on the end which liven it up considerably. In any case, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. Jajaja.


I didn't hang long in the front row, despite smiles from the cute backing singer Chili. Too many chicas elbowing in, so after about four songs I retired petulantly, er, gracefully to the back. Actually wasn't as full as it was during the last matinee Paulito played - there was plenty of room about three rows back. Towards the end - during Te Boté, Paulo got the Industriales up (is there a gig those guys haven't been too this week?), then not long after that Michel came on in an Industriales uniform which was fucking hilarious. Paulito let him sing a bit. What a clown. It was wild though. It was totally fucking ace.


When Paulo started singing again, he did his pa'l piso thing, and the Industrial next to him thought he'd fallen, and bent down and offered his hand, then he realised that Paulo knew what he was doing, and he was like, fuck, you can do that? PFG's in good shape for a temba. His freshly waxed chest was gleaming.
The CH pianista got up again (is there a gig he hasn't been to this week?) and someone I didn't recognise took over the timbales for Pututi for a while.
Before the show I had gone to talk to the bass player, Cristobal; but just as I did, someone tapped him to go on stage, and he said we'll talk later. After the show, after we all had a picture taken with Michel (jajaja), Helen and I went to talk to him and what a little sweetie he is! And how beautifully he speaks Spanish! And what great things he told me. And do you think I have a crush on him?
We had a great chat with some good gossip that I probably shouldn't put here if I want to have any chance at more candid chats with Cuban musos in the future. But believe me when I say it was very interesting. He has been wth Paulo for seven years, except for a brief stint with Adalberto. He told me the piano player, who I think is pretty hot, um, musically, that is, is a young guy called Maikel who used to play with Charanga Forever.
I told him that I don't like the album so much as the band live, becuse it's so - and he said "lite". And I said, yeah. And he said Paulo wants it that way - of course. Que lastima.
There's a party at our place on Thursday night (you're all invited) and we told him to come along, but after 9:30, cause we'll be at Manolito. He said, Oh, I'm going to Manolito too I'll be playing with them - so I'll see you there.
So here's hoping our last night in Havana is a corker.
So far, there isn't anything good for tomorrow, so that'll be a day of shopping, or something.
I hate baseball, but I think I need an Industriales t-shirt ...

© Gabriel Wilder 2006

This is the stage that Los Van Van would have played on if it hadn't started pissing down a few minutes after I took this photo. It continued for about an hour and half, washing out the concert (if any geeks are coming down soon, it's been rescheduled for June 22); but not the fireworks for the Industriales, which were set off when the skies cleared about 11:30pm.

Bailando con Los Van Van
Went to Galiano last night at about 12:20. The show has changed - instead of the Añoranza por la Conga dancers, there was a group wearing Havana Club t-shirts and doing an idiotic routine to reggaeton, while the MC bellowed "abana clooooooooob!" Nice. It finished up about 12:30. A guy asked me to dance, but it was reggaeton, so I said no. The next song was PFG's Pasta con Tostones, so I said "come on". He danced well and didn't ask me my name nor where I came from. I was so impressed I danced with him to Charanga's Chera Mia - so now you know he was good!
Van Van came on at 12:55. And from the opening strains of Chapeando, I was thinking how ridiculous it was that I had considered not going. Sure, they don't trip my trigger like some of the other bands, but they are still awesome. And really, $25 is not a lot for a concert like that. Of course it all adds up, but if you have the money, they are sure worth it. It was pretty much the same show as before. Lele and Roberton kissed Yeni during (does that mean she arrived late?) and Yeni joined Roberton for the bum-waggle dance. She was wearing a stretch top and glittery tube skirt so it was, uh, impressive, to say the least. Formell came out to sing the medley they do of old suff - Candela, Pastorita Tiene Guararey, etc. They lost some of the Cuban crowd during this one, some preferring to get drinks or whatever, rather than hold their place in the front line. Formell is really not looking so good. Kinda ashen and shrivelled. He was on the radio during the day spruiking the Tribuna show tonight - he doesn't sound so hot either. After the medley he left, and didn't return.
Last time I saw them, Lele was wearing a white cap. Last night he wasn't, and I could see why he might want to wear one - weird hairdo - flat and parted on the side with a little ponytail. Honestly, what is he thinking? The place was packed - the Industriales, who have been partying all week, were all there, as were Charanga, whose pianista got up on stage again to play. One of the Industriales tried to give me dance tips. Yeah, when I want to learn to dance, I'll go to a baseball player. Another guy, an older one, asked me to dance, and when I said no, he said "te enseño". Wow, thanks, mate. He'd already tried it on me previously in the week, but I could tell from his look that he had no recollection of it. Later, Lele got the whole team up on stage - two of their most handsome did a fabulous despelote/tembleque. Thank you Lord. The older guy was up there with them - coach? Team manager? No idea.
When it came time for Yeni to sing Despues de Todo, some of the guys cleared out of the line at the front of the stage, leaving it free for the women who watched her adoringly (myself included). I just love her. I love the way she sings and interacts with the audience - she's a very personal singer. And so playful. I love that about her too. As I was leaving I saw her sitting at the back, next to the entrance. I went and told how much I loved her and she said "Yah, yah, yah." And waved me away with smile. Jajajaja.
Even though they are great - and they are, I found it hard to maintain my interest - too tired. Sat down for a while and watched Mayito's histrionics. There is a Hey Jude bit now in that is particularly naff. Mind you that song is pretty much a write-off for me anyway, so what does it matter? I'd like to see Robertón do Ven Ven, rather than La Buena. Maybe they'll do a different set tonight for the free concert. There is a rumour here that Van Van will be playing Australia in August. I find that hard to believe, but I guess I should try and check it out in the little time I have left here.

© Gabriel Wilder 2006

Fraudy, who has been teaching me dance in Australia, dances with an Afro-Cuban group here called Ban Ra Ra (not sure of the spelling). A friend told me they were due to play on Prado this afternoon (not with Fraudy sadly, who is in Guantanamo - with family, not the US govt) and after thinking of just lying on my bed, I hauled my sorry arse into a pair of pants and walked down there. It had been going to start at 3pm, apparently, and finally got underway at 7pm.
The gig was the closer of Poetry week; which I didn't know had had a beginning. There was a chica in African gear spouting off a bit, and sundry others as well; but once Ban Ra Ra arrived, the show really got going. They started with traditional santo stuff - Ochun, Yemaya etc, then got into group dance which is when they really fired. They did a spectacular dance with two maypoles - I kid you not. It was incredible - and left Morris dancing for dead. (Afterwards, a Cuban friend said it's a tradition from Haiti - which means there's a good chance the two styles do originate from the same source.) They whirled and twirled around these things, winding in and out of each other and around the poles at a pace that picked up, as rumba often seems to, until they were in a frenzy. They then tied the two poles together; and finished by unwinding them at a seemingly even more frenetic pace - this was all the more astounding because they didn't make one mistake; cleanly unwinding the coloured ribbons until they hung, slack, the length of the pole. Sensational stuff.
Then they did cool stuff with knives, and fire, totally freaking out a little tourist girl standing in front of me, and this thing where one of the women stood on table and the guys lifted her - and it - in their teeth. Yeesh. Very, very cool.
There were great singers in their group - the best female vocalists in Cuba seems to be in the rumba groups; Yoruba Andabo's female vocalist is a star too. Great venue too - treelined Prado on a warm, clear evening. After, the guys packing up put on Reve and Trabuco, and we danced on the marble promenade. How fab.
I had decided to go to Van Van after all, but now I'm sitting here and my back hurts and I'm thinking ... maybe not. I have an hour or two to decide. I should go I reckon. In one week I won't even have such a paltry choice as tonight's: Van Van or Pachito? The big gig is on tomorrow with Van Van at the Tribuno Anti-Imperialista, so that's another reason I'm thinking of slacking off. I'll let you know.
The tyical bonehead Saturday night movie is on. I missed the title - just saw that it stars such luminaries as Lisa Bonet and er, Kid Rock. Lotsa motorcycles. Oh, and Laurence Fishburne.

© Gabriel Wilder 2006

I was going to go and see Charanga Habanera for you people. Really I was. Pero suspendio. Classic Habana: it's been all over the radio all day, then at the Trabuco matinee at Miramar the word went around (probably courtesy of the CH piano player - sorry, don't know his name - who played for a while during the set) that the gig was off. Left a lot of people hanging around after wondering what to do: Pachito at Galiano? I don't think so. NG la Banda? Hmmm. Angeles de la Habana were scheduled to play at the Stadium tonight for the big win - they have some Industriales song out - but wild horses etc.

I'm actually at home, 10pm on Friday night in Havana. I've rested for three days to try and get over the damn headaches (ok, I saw Trabuco twice in that period ... that's resting, isn't it?) and now I feel like partying dammit. I left a bunch of Trabuco boys outside Miramar, drinking rum and smoking - Riverón, Mayami, Chino.

So Manolito. Again. You know, I was asking myself if I really wanted to see them again. Really. But oh man, as soon as they started - it was Hablando en Serio - the answer was "Yessssssssssss". I was down the front in two seconds, shaking it. And the sound was so much better - made me realise just how shit it is at Cantante. Made me realise you can't hear the horns there - even though I stand right in front of them. And man, they are so hot. So very hot. Mmmm. (And yes, I'm talking about the sound!) And the strings. It's all so good. It just sounded so sweet. Hablando, Sacude, Dijiste Mentiras, Marilu, Sabrosona, Comunicate, Locos... they closed with that killer version of Marcando la Distancia - it's 15 minutes long and it's sensational; has all these extra coros on the end. The sound is phenomenal - full and overflowing, and everyone - audience; musos - is just going off, singing and smiling. It's lurv, people.
The elusive Michelle White was there, so I imagine there will be photographs and possibly an interview with Amaray in the not too distant future.

How lucky I have been that Trabuco have been here playing so much, and the Cantante residency, even though the sound is shit; has such great ambience. It's like some grungy gig in a hole in the wall bar somewhere, only with a kickarse 16-piece group that has not only horns, but strings fer chrissake. You just rock up each week, pay $10 to get in, and away you go, as if it's nothing out of the ordinary. Spot at the front no problem. Winks and smiles and kisses from the musos. It's been fantastic. And it looks like next week is their last week there - if indeed, they play there next week. Look out Europe. Y'all want to get get your asses along to one of their shows. Seriously. I have spoken. (Jajaja.)

And in an unrelated note, timbageek David has identified the Paulito song that has completely bewitched me - not sure of the title but the coro is: "No soy un cantante de etiqueta, soy un cantante de la calle, y yo canto pa' la gente de peseta y canto pa' mi gente de la calle."

Well you probably have to hear it to get it's beauty; but it gives you an idea.

Paulito: still callejero after all these years.

© Gabriel Wilder 2006

I'm listening to the radio in a so far vain attempt to find out what, if anything, is going on today. They're playing the ten minute version of Adalberto's Que tu Quieres que te Den.

So last night I remembered that Tumbao Havana were on at Cafe Cantante, and after I'd blogged and read a while, I decided to go. I didn't leave till way after 12 and spent some time on almost deserted Belascoain waiting for a taxi, so I didn't get there till 12:30. The band were on - and then they weren't - they finished at 1am dammit. I'd thought it would be the same as Casa de la Musica where they go on at 1am. Guess not.
They were quite good - small band by Havana standards (4 metales, conga, drum kit, bass, two keyboards, two singers) - they get some solid grooves going. They have an amazing bass player - a totally built negrita, she was playing a baby bass and wearing white stiletto boots and tight pants that clung to her ample and spectacular buttocks. The singers took their shirts off to reveal singlets atop of their tight jeans. The resulting look was a bit Tom of Finland - I'm sure that was not their intention and I wouldn't be caught dead suggesting it was at all intentional. Though having said that, the conga player is a big dandy, and there were one or two in the audience also, possibly drawn there by the house music that banged on as soon as they left the stage.
I was a bit disappointed that I missed most of their set. Might try and catch them again before I leave.

Thursday afternoon in La Habana

Just back from Cantante for the Thursday Trabuco residency. As sets go; it wasn't my favourite - no Hablando en Serio. La Raspadura almost didn't make it either; but after they finished Locos; Manolito stepped out from behind the keyboards to the centre stage - someone - Amaray? - pointed at his watch to say "it's 8:30". Manolito waved him off and started them into the Mission Impossible intro to Raspadura. Yay! They followed it up with a sizzling version of Marcando la Distancia. Methinks these gigs are warm-ups for the European tour they leave for around June 24.
There was another band on before them - didn't catch the name. Timba; three boy singers. One in a string singlet. Bless. Trabuco didn't go on till at least 7. Probably after. It was busy. I forgot my earplugs, and after the first band finished, the DJ played a couple of salsa songs - I danced to La Buena with my Spanish teacher, Isabel - then launched into the reggaeton. Wandered out into the corridor to try and escape. Spoke to the trombonist - Rolando? Yolando? Saludoed El Indio and Chino. The were all lined up by the bar, except for Bencomo who was sitting at a big table with I don't know who else. So fucking dark in there, you can't see anything.
I was with the trombonist when the manager told them they were about to go on, so that was good. Got my water and Annabel and I went down to the front of stage.
The band started with an Amaray song from Locos I think. Damn. Followed it up with No te pases. Two strikes. Sigh.
Mayami's family was there I think. I'm pretty sure the chick they got up on stage was his mum - I didn't totally understand everything being said (last night's migraine appears to have obliterated what little Spanish I had). But when she got up on stage and turned around, you could see the top of her lace undies above her jeans; and Mayami quickly went behind her to tuck them in a bit more. She didn't seem to notice. El Indio was trying to get her to sing and she was a bit shy, then when she did sing, she wasn't really very good. Mayami had peeps in the crowd giving him rum all night. After the fourth or so cup; he smiled at the giver and shook his head; pointed to the foldback where he already had two other cups of rum, then tapped two fingers on his shoulder (Cuban for "boss") mimed playing piano and looked in Manolito's direction and shook his head: the boss will kill me if he sees this. That was pretty fucking funny.

Tanja's daughter?

A young girl got up and I couldn't understand what they were saying, but Annabel said they were saying she's Tanja's daughter. I find that hard to believe. She sang Ya no hace falta and I'm actually sick of that song now. Give it a rest. She could carry a tune and had a nice voice; but she couldn't sing a guia to save her life. Cute though. I didn't see a family resemblance.

Reasonably uneventful apart from that. I was still recuperating and videoing and stuff so I didn't really go off dance wise.


Me, and the god of drums, Riverón

Only week for me to go now. At the beginning of this week I was trying to change my ticket to stay another nine days; but yet another migraine later, I'm dying to go home now. Of course whenever I see Trabuco or Pupy or PFG, I want to stay here forever. But the days inbetween those gigs can be long. And they seem kind of a waste when you're lying in a dark room trying to kick a headache.
There are celebrations this weekend for the Industriales, who won the national baseball tournament. The rumour is that Van Van will play on the Malecon on Sunday; but there may be more happening. Have to keep my ear tuned to Disco Fiesta.
Charanga Habanera are on at La Cecilia tomorrow night but I think I'll skip it. A part of me thinks I should go, cause here I am in Havana, and there they are; and next week I'll be in Sydney and they'll be ... I dunno, in Europe or somewhere. But the other part of me knows that if I do go, those boyband vocals will just shit me to tears.

© Gabriel Wilder 2006