The timba geek's guide to Havana

Part VI: Getting around

The Malécon at night.

Getting from one place to another is one of Havana's biggest hurdles. It's a nightmare for anyone without CUCs and can still be a challenge for those who do have them. Once you get there you'll understand why many Cubans hardly leave their barrio if they can help it: it requires a lot of effort and time just to get from A to B (forget about Z).

If you've got money to burn, getting around is a cinch. But if you need to keep an eye on your finances, it's a bit trickier. There are a number of forms of transport that have varying degrees of reliability, frequency, comfort and cost.

Those rolling in it could do worse than hiring a car - I think you can get one for about $US40-50/day (bit hazy on this as I've never done it myself). This means that as well as not having to haggle over the price of a car at 3am when you are leaving Casa de la Música at Miramar; you can easily get out to El ISA in Playa for those gigs during Cubadisco; you have the luxury of driving around looking at carteleras to find out who's playing (one of the most reliable methods); gigs at La Macumba and La Cecilia become more doable, and you can easily get out to the beach if you feel like a dip.

However there are drawbacks - apart from the obvious (the cost), you also have to garage the car at night so bits of it aren't stolen, and pay people to watch it when you're parked in the street when you're out and about (for the same reason). Guide books have details on how to hire one. Or go to the nearest hotel.

Second best, for those who don't care about money, is to get dollar cabs everywhere. There are a number of different kinds, all with different fees in CUCs, and you can almost always get one. They can be scarce during peak hour - both morning and night - and outside La Tropical at about 1am - they just don't seem to go past there very often for some reason. (There is a public phone nearby, so have the number handy [one is 55-5555] and one should come.)

The cheapest of the CUC cabs are the white Panataxis that have "20% cheaper" written across their bonnets in red (though the difference in price between these and the yellow Panataxis appears negligible). These really are a good deal - Centro to Miramar is about $4CUCs. Pretty good.

All taxis will turn the meter off late at night (usually after 12) and want to charge a fixed price like the unofficial cars that hang around outside nightclubs etc. Negotiate the price in advance.
In the last year, these flat prices have escalated dramatically: a trip from Miramar to Havana would never usually incur a price of more than $6CUCs - this year, many drivers routinely asked for $10CUCs. How much to pay depends on how many cars there are and how quickly you want to get to your destination.


The second cheapest option are máquinas - private cars that are licensed to carry locals for 10 pesos. They can be tricky to recognise - they are usually '50s numbers or Ladas, and some have a "taxi" sign in the windscreen, others will just slow down whenever they see someone waiting by the side of the road. (If you're interested, stick your hand out.) It is illegal for them to carry tourists (they can be fined if they are caught doing so) but many do - some happily, some grudgingly; still others will hit a tourist for a much higher fee in dollars on arrival at the destination.
These cars travel set routes - like a bus - and will pick up and set down anywhere along this route, but won't divert from it (unless you want to pay more - it maybe open to negotiation if you have the car to yourself). Like going to the correct bus stop for your route; you will need to find the correct route for your destination. Most start/end their trip at the Capitolio, but other major pick-up/drop-off points in the city are Neptuno, San Lazaro and Reina/Carlos Tercero - that's travelling west. To go east, try the Capitolio.

These are the affordable option for Cubans with a little money, so remember, taking a place in one of these is a place that could have been taken by a Cuban (who wouldn't be able to afford to pay CUCs for the trip), so be considerate. If you can afford to take a CUC taxi, do so.

Insider's view of El Camello. Pic by dogseat.

There a few different kinds of buses - regular passenger buses, some fancy new ones that have a rubber diaphragm connecting two large compartments, and the infamous camello. You've probably heard about this last one: a big-ass truck with an enormous cargo hold for passengers. Cheap as chips to travel on - not sure how much, but we're talking a few centavos. They are generally packed to the gills and if I tell you that they are a regular target of the locals' dry humour, you will have an idea of how much fun they are. I have no idea about the regular routes, so I can't help you there.

Last but not least: walking. I highly recommend it. I stay in Centro from where I can easily walk to Habana Vieja (about 10 minutes) and Vedado (15 minutes). The streets are lively, the scenery is captivating. It's a fun thing to do during the day. Walking late at night around Centro or Vieja is not recommended. Get a cab even short distances, unless you are in a group.