
Alaín's farandula sports the hot Havana looks.
Like other visitors to Havana, when I get back the first question most people ask is: "Has it changed much?" Normally the answer is, "No, not really." And that's still the answer more or less, in spite of the recent changes to laws regarding mobile phones, hotels etc. I mean, what you're talking about here are changes that have affected a lot of people, and are visible, and apart from there being more mobile phones around - in Havana anyway - the others don't seem to have come into play. A couple of Habaneros I know who went into hotels still felt as uncomfortable as if they were not supposed to be there. Some of the mooted changes haven't actually happened yet, and some, like more land being made available to cultivate food, have been enacted too recently to be felt yet.But there are two obvious visible changes.One has already been noted: the dreaded camellos have been banished (apparently to the countryside) and in their place are sleek new articulated buses from China. These are not only a great deal more comfortable than the camellos, but there are now more routes and they run with much greater frequency. The price is still the same, but if you don't have to travel at peak hour, you should have room to breath while you travel. And you won't have to wait for hours till the next bus arrives. This is really great news as transport has been such a problem for so long.The second obvious change is that Havana had, for the first time, immigrants (the first time in recent history, at least). Or if not immigrants exactly, groups of foreigners living there for extended periods who clearly were not tourists. Apparently out in the Playas del Este there were about 1000 Chinese studying Spanish in preparation for the Olympics. But closer to the city, in Centro Habana and Habana Vieja, there were suddenly a lot of young Chinese too - what they were doing there was a little more of a mystery. They shopped for their food at the local markets and cooked for themselves in their casas, and walked around the streets together.I feel ridiculous writing about Chinese people walking around the streets together from a multicultural hub like Sydney. But this is Havana I'm talking about, a place where a person's foreigness is constantly noted, where you are continuously reminded that you are an outsider, and it really was unusual to suddenly see so many more foreigners in the streets.
And now onto the really important changes: what is de moda in Havana at the moment? Well, sadly, high-waisted jeans, neither appropriate for the climate nor, it should be said, for the common body type in Cuba (to be honest I don't think high-waisted jeans are really appropriate for any body type) have turned up. And not just high-waisted either, but those super high-waisted ones that seem to have a little waistcoat attached. Yuck. With any luck they won't stick around.Alice bands also seem popular (cute) and the aforementioned sequinned bras - scary but glam - are popular at the gigs. There is a trend among very pale-skinned girls to dye their hair blue-black, and I saw more than one tiara. The glitter eyeliner I have seen for the last three years is still around, and I finally managed to get my hands on it myself (previous enquiries about its source had yielded nothing but "de una chica en la calle"). Of course on returning to Sydney I find it is finally available here.On the opposite end of the spectrum, some people are adopting the indie look of longish unkempt hair, stovepipes - sorry, skinny jeans - t-shirts and sneakers. Mostly guys, it should be said. It's a nice contrast to the bling, which still holds pole position.Also, Paris Hilton's influence is showing: there were a few people in the street carrying tiny dogs. I walked into my landlord's flat a few days after my arrival to find a mop of fur on the floor - it was a 45-day old Pekingese.One of the odder trends is the arrival, finally, of house music. Oh it's been here and there in bits and pieces over the years, but now, taxi drivers are playing it - and I do mean drivers plural - and people are talking about it. So it is finally creeping into the mainstream. And I wonder, why now, after all this time?